It's an all-inclusive!

The friendly front desk clerk in the large lobby filled with classic art and traditional furniture, told me breakfast, lunch and dinner are included in the price. You can drink wine, champagne, premium-brand liquor and soft drinks until your thirst is quenched. Tennis, non-motorized water sports, snorkeling equipment daily activities and fitness center use are also included in the flat rate. That's one of the big differences between this 300-room, hillside resort and the rest of the pack. You can rest your wallet as you rest your body.

The Place:

I entered my two-room suite on the seventh floor of a terra cotta colored building from an open-air passage that faced the main building. I walked into a room with floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors which had an unobstructed view of Water Bay, the Durlough Kays, St. John and the British Virgin Islands, where the Atlantic and Caribbean meet to create Pillsbury sound. What a vista! My terrace had a chair and table for comfort, an amenity I didn't take lightly. There are hotels in the Caribbean that don't have terraces or balconies, which puts a damper on a tropical vacation. My room had an informal, cabana-type feel. Not prissy luxury accommodations, you know, the kind that make you timid about putting your feet on the furniture. Getting comfy was easy. And if I decided to dawdle, I could indulge in the in-room movies, Play station, or cable TV. But with that sweeping panorama, reading on the balcony was my pleasure du jour.

My Routine:

Every day, I awoke at my leisure, opened my curtains and took in the seascape. Venturing out was easy, as everything is within walking distance or you can hitch a ride on one of the shuttles. Mornings, I'd breakfast in the Manor House, sitting near the windows, enjoying the buffet with fresh backed pastries, tropical fruit, eggs, sausage and more. My fellow guests were always pleasant and friendly. After the buffet, I gathered magazines, a Walkman and sun lotion and headed down to the beach, down the 99 wooden steps crawling with bougainvillea flowers.

Sugar Bay's beach has a small white-sand crescent shore. It's better for wading and snorkeling than swimming. I took up residence on a lounge chair and gazed out on the placid, azure waters, which were occasionally rippled by a Jet Ski or a boat pulling a parasail. (I've got to try that one of these days.) People snorkeled. A lifeguard taught a couple how to use a small kayak and guided a guest through the basics of windsurfing. Introduction to scuba diving classes and snorkeling are included in the price, however, there is a fee for boat dives and activities like water-skiing, snorkel cruises and private sailing. The shore was never crowded, never noisy. The action was at the three interconnecting fresh water pools nearby. Volleyball, water basketball, children playing, and poolside bingo -- that's the atmosphere most people expect at an all-inclusive.

Activities. Activities.

In the afternoons I had a choice of playing golf at the nearby Mahogany's Run, an 18-hole, 6,022-yard, par-70 course (golf packages include greens fees, cart fees, and club storage.) Or I could participate in any of the resort's daily activities, which included: 7:30am power walks, iguana feeding, water aerobics, coed flag football, senior's coffee break and a fairly challenging fitness trail. The Kids Klub program is designed for children ages four through 12 and offers a myriad of activities from baking cookies, to shell collecting, to treasure hunts. And weddings are performed on a rooftop with a silver floor, a white gazebo and a spectacular view. Nuptials taken here are the kind you remember for a lifetime.

For those who venture off-property, shopping in Duty-Free, downtown Charlotte Amalie for perfume, liquor, jewelry and watches can be a money-saving experience. Daytrips to St. John's or St. Thomas's world-famous Magens Bay beach are worth the endeavor too. I spent my late afternoons playing tennis with the gregarious resident Pro, Randy Shaw. We worked on my backhand, forehand and volleys. There's a sign that reads, “Beat the pro and the lesson is free.” I tried. I got some games off him, but the guy's too good. Somebody please go down there and cream him. And tell him I sent you! He'll chuckle.

The Journeys Spa:

In July 2002, Sugar Bay opened a 10,000-sqaure foot spa. The pale yellow, two-story building includes indoor and outdoor treatment rooms, a 2,500-square-foot fitness center, a full-service beauty salon and separate outdoor tanning sections with private Jacuzzis for men and women. This $1.5 million facility is the resort's new crown jewel.

After two hours of tennis, the spa beckoned. For my first treatment, I chose the Journeys Marine Algae Body Wrap. My masseuse, Jenny, gently brushed my body to exfoliate my skin. She mixed seaweed with aromatic essential oils and pasted a detoxifying mask over my body. While I vegetated under the body wrap, she massaged my scalp. Ah sweet bliss. After, she removed the mask and rubbed Journey's hydrating body lotion into my skin. Journeys specializes in hydrotherapy, and I suggest the Caribbean Journey. It's a milky coconut bath featuring pineapple and vitality aromatic essence. The room was candle lit, as I stepped into the tub, the attendant pressed a button and the fragrant concoction swirled around me. For those who imbibe, Piña Coladas are available. And upon request, a Piña Colada Body Polish can follow this treatment. Other signature treatments include the Mother and Daughter Massage (a perfect time for parent/offspring bonding); the Ultimate Couples Massage (private massage lessons, romantic music and two therapists); and an assortment of facials.

I loved the exotic treatments, but the spa services I'll always remember were the pedicure and manicure administered by a very patient beautician named Rosie. I'm an athlete, and my feet look those of an athlete -- somewhere in-between crawfish claws and lizard feet. She's a brave woman. I sat in a chair that resembled a throne; water rushed out under my seat into a basin where my feet soaked in a sudsy, soothing formula. With the patience of Job, and handling my skittishness with great reserve, Rosie used a device that looked like a cheese-slicer to cut dead skin off the bottom of my feet. It was painless. Then she worked on my cuticles, clipped my nails, applied lotions and presto, my feet looked human again. The manicure included a seaweed mask and a massage up to my elbows. I shunned nail polish, and went for simple buffing. When she was done, my hands looked like those of a rich man. Guys, if you're shy about these kinds of treatments, ask for Rosie. And women too. Your feet and hands will thank you.

Night Time:

Dinner is served at the Manor House Restaurant, which has an extensive soup and salad bar. Several nights a week, the Mangrove Restaurant, adjacent to the pool, throws a Caribbean barbecue, with fresh grilled fish, jerk chicken, and the like. The Turtle Rock Sports Bar next door, is opened 11am to 11pm and has a large TV usually tuned to a sports channel. Remember, the drinks are included! Late night, folks gravitate to the Ocean Club Art Deco nightclub, a cabaret where it's been said a karaoke singer or two has made a debut. Next to the 6,720-square-foot ballroom and 15,000-square-foot meeting/conference space, there's a 112-seat tiered amphitheater with built-in-state-of-the-art audiovisual equipment. I've never seen a theater this big or professional in any hotel in the Caribbean. The theater shows kids' movies at 7pm and movies for adults at 9pm. Cool.

The friendly staff, all-inclusive plan, the view, a very cozy, luxurious spa and the amphitheater sets Wyndham Sugar Bay Resort & Spa apart from other resorts in St. Thomas. It's distinct.